|| Sri Mahatripurasundari Chandramoulishwarebhyo namaH ||
grhamedhyatra vishwesho bhavAnI tatkuTumbinI |
sarvebhyaH kAshisaMsthebhyo mokShabhikShAM prayacChati ||
`The divine couple residing in Kashi - Sri Vishwanatha and Sri Annapurna, grant the Bhiksha of Moksha to all residents of Kashi' - so say the scriptures. Thus, Kashi has been described as the foremost among the Mokshapuris. Kashi Khanda - which forms the fourth chapter of the Skanda Purana, describes the limitless glory of the sacred capital of Sri Vishwanatha. This post is a humble tribute to my Guru whose foremost desire was to reside in Kashi.
At the end of the Kalpa, the three qualities of Sattva, Rajas and Tamas dissolved into a state of equilibrium, leading to mahA praLaya, which resulted in the disappearance of the entire creation including the pancha mahAbhUtas. With the intention of creation, Sri Mahadeva appeared as Sri Narayana, immersed in Yoganidra on Ananta, sporting Sudarshana, Panchajanya, Gada and Padma in his four hands. After several Yugas, Brahma appeared seated on a lotus that originated from the navel of Sri Narayana. Due to Mahamaya of Lord Sadhashiva, Brahma was filled with Ahamkara and assumed himself to be the master of the cosmos. Sensing Brahma's ignorance, Sri Narayana appeared in front of him and asked him, "Who are you?", to awaken him from the slumber of ignorance. Brahma replied, "I am Ishwara - Lord of everything". When Narayana tried to explain the true glory of the Adi Purusha, Brahma angrily attacked Narayana. This lead to a fierce and inconclusive battle between the two, which lasted for several Yugas.
Then, all of a sudden, a Linga of immense brightness appeared in front of them, extending beyond the reach of their vision, both in length and breadth. Within the Linga, a divine form having five faces appeared. Both Brahma and Narayana were filled with devotion at the sight of the Divine form and immediately prostrated before him. The divine Purusha addressed them thus: "I am pleased with your devotion. Seek a boon". Both Narayana and Brahma said, "Lord! If you are truly pleased with our devotion, please grant true and everlasting devotion in the divine Linga that has appeared before us. Also tell us why the Linga has appeared here and what its name is?" The Lord replied thus: "This Linga is called Vishweshwara Linga. In days to come, by merely seeing this Linga, people will be freed of all their sins and will earn the merit of Yajna, Dana and Tirtha Yatra. The location where this Linga has appeared is very special and the creature which gives up its body in this place will be granted Brahma Jnana and hence Mukti, by the Upadesha of Taraka Mantra from Ishwara. [If one examines Purnas and Itihasas like Linga Purana, Shiva Rahasya etc, the Taraka Mantra referred here is Pranava and not Rama Taraka. Pranava being the first and the foremost of all the Mantras, is the true tAraka mantra. Also, the scriptures explain anusandhana of Pranava as the path to Brahma Jnana. Some claim that Lord Mahadeva utters Rama mantra in the ear of a dying person in Kashi and grants him Moksha. This seems to be the belief of only some Vaishnavaite cults and has been well publicized. Though Rama mantra Japa can lead one to a state of Shuddha Chitta, required for Jnana, it is incorrect to assume that mere recitation of Rama mantra or any other mantra on deathbed can grant one Moksha.] This Linga will be present here eternally even after cycles of Maha Pralaya. Attain your desires by worshipping this Linga". Having advised thus, the great Purusha disappeared.
That divine place where the Jyotirlinga appeared to Brahma and Narayana even before the creation of Pancha Bhutas is what we know today as Kashi or Varanasi. Kashi has attracted devotees and Mumukshus in all the four Yugas. Irrespective of one's Varna and Ashrama, the Lord frees a dying creature in Kashi from the cycle of birth and death by Brahmopadesha. However, those who commit sins knowingly in this sacred city will attain Rudra Pishacha Yoni and will be punished by Bhairavas till they are absolved of their sins.
All Tithis and Nakshtras are auspicious for traveling to Kashi. It is unnecessary to examine Tithi, Nakshatra or Vara for Kashi Yatra. The most sacred place within Kashi is the Avimukta Kshetra, which is dearer to the Lord than even Kailasa. By entering this Kshetra, one is freed from sins and desires. Vyasa and Vamadeva have declared Avimukta Kshetra Darshana to be the greatest medicine for Mahapatakis and Upapatakis. The Shastras describe the following Kshetras as pApahAri: Prayaga, Naimisharanya, Srisaila, Himalaya, Kedara, Bhadrakarna, Gaya, Pushkara, Kurukshetra, Vamsha Tirtha, Prabhasa, Hatakeshwara and Gokarna. But even these Ksehtras cannot be compared to even one-sixteenth of the glory of Kashi-Avimukta.
To the right side of Sri Vishweshwara Linga, one can see Jnana Vapi. By taking bath there, one is propelled towards Brahma Jnana and hence the name - Jnana Vapi. This well is said to have been dug by Shiva himself using his Trishula and a bath in this well frees one from Graha and Preta Badha as well. It is said that Surya worshipped Lord Mahadeva with the water from this well reciting Rudra and Pancha Suktas.
To obtain Sudarshana Chakra from the Lord, Narayana performed penance in Kashi. He created a Pushkarini and filled it with water that emanated from his body. On the banks of this Pushkarini, Narayana performed a severe penance for eighty thousand years. Pleased with his penance, the Lord appeared with Bhavani and blessed him with Sudarshana Chakra. Hence, this Pushkarini came to be known as Chakra Pushkarini. Immensely pleased with Narayana's devotion, Lord shook his head in bliss and his earring fell into the Pushkarini. As the Lord's Karnamani (the earring) fell into it, the Tirtha also came to be known as Manikarnika. The Lord also blessed Narayana that those who perform Sandhya, Japa, Tapa, Pindadana, Vedapatha, Darpana Dana, Deva Puja, Go - Bhu - Kanya - Tila - Hiranya - Ashwa - Vastra Danas, sacrifices like Agnishtoma, Udyapana of Vratas, Vrishotsarga, Hari-Hara Pratima-Linga Sthapanas etc. on the banks of Manikarnika, will attain infinite merit. All sins accumulated over myriads of births are destroyed by taking a bath in Manikarnika and worshipping Hari and Hara with Abheda Buddhi (non-difference). One who thinks low of the glory of Manikarnika or sees a difference between Hari and Hara will accrue Brahmahatya Dosha [Naradiya Purana].
Kashi is the Avimukta Kshetra of Lord Mahadeva. Thirty-three crore Devatas reside in Kashi, ever worshipping Lord Mahadeva and Bhagavati Bhavani. By reciting one lakh Gayatri in Kashi, one is blessed with the merit of Chaturvedadhyayana. By merely fasting for a day in Kashi, one gets the merit of Kricchra, Chandrayana and other Vratas. The merit of performing severe penance in other places for a thousand years is obtained by performing Bhumishayana Vrata (sleeping on bare ground) for a year in Kashi. The merit of keeping total silence for one's complete lifetime is obtained by observing Mauna Vrata for a fortnight in Kashi. Lifetimes would be insufficient to describe the greatness of the holy city of Kashi.
Though there are innumerable Shiva Lingas in Kashi, five are considered most sacred:
Sri Omkareshwara is also called Panchayataneshwara as this Linga represents the Samashti or totality of the Panchayatana - Aditya, Ambika, Ganesha, Vishnu and Sadashiva. Worshipping this Linga grants one the merit of a lifetime of Panchayatana Puja.
Lord destroyed Gajasura, wore his skin as cloth and came to be known as Krttivaseshwara in Varanasi. One who worships Krttivaseshwara attains Kaivalya even while living in a physical body. One attains Ashta Siddhis by worshipping this Linga and ascends to Kailasa. The secret place in Kashi which houses this sacred Linga is known only to advanced Yogis.
Kapardishwara Linga is also called Papanasheshwara as mere remembrance of this Linga destroys one's sins. By taking bath in Pishacha Mochana Kunda and worshipping Kapardishwara, even the greatest of sins like Brahma Hatya Dosha are destroyed. Kapardishwara is considered as important as Sri Vishwanatha in Kashi.
Originally, the city of Kashi has been described as Panchakroshapura and the Linga situated in the centre of the city is called Madhyameshwara. Lord Shiva is ever present in this Linga along with Sridevi and Rudra Ganas. Krishna is said to have worshipped Lord Shiva at this place. Taking a bath in Mandakini and worshipping Sri Madhyeshwara grants one the merit of one hundred Maha Yagnas.
Traditionally, the city of Kashi is said to begin with Madhyameshwara and end with the shrine of Dehali Vinayaka. Visiting Kashi is a sacred duty for all followers of Sanatana Dharma. The prime duty for a person visiting Kashi has been described in Kashi Khanda as below:
yAtrAdwayaM prayatnena kartavyaM prativAsaram |
Adau swargataraMgiNyaH tato vishweshituH dhruvam ||
Yatri should take bath in Ganga and visit Sri Vishwanatha everyday while at Kashi. According to Kashi Rahasya:
chakrapuShkariNItIrthe snAtavyaM prativAsaram |
patraiH puShpaiH phalaistoyaiH pUjyo vishweshwaraH sadA ||
Yatri should take bath in Manikarnika and worship Sri Vishwanatha everyday while at Kashi.
snAtvA mumukShurmaNikarNikAyAm mR^iDANigaMgAhR^idaye tadAsye |
vishweshwaraM pashyati yo.api ko.api shivatmamAyAti punarna janma ||
Sri Manikarnika represents the heart of Ganga and the face of Bhavani. One who takes bath in Manikarnika and sees Lord Vishwanatha is freed from the cycle of birth and death. Hence, Kashi Yatra is also called ekAyatana yAtrA. Taking a bath in Manikarnika during the noon is considered more sacred than in the morning according to Linga Purana - prAtaH paMchanadIH snAtvA madhyAhne maNikarNikAm.
According to Shiva Rahasya, one should bath in Dashashwamedha Ghat during the morning and in Manikarnika during the noon [prAtardashAshwamedhe cha madhyAhne maNikarNikAm]. Taking a bath only in Manikarnika is considered Eka Tirtha Yatra, both in Pancha Ganga and Manikarnika as Dwi Tirtha Yatra and in Pancha Ganga - Manikarnika and Dashashwamedha as Tri Tirtha Yatra. Tri Tirtha Yatra is considered uttama or best. According to Linga Purana:
kAshyAM tIrthatrayI shreShThA sevyA nityaM prayatnataH |
Adau snAtvA prayAge tu paMchagaMgA tataH param |
tataH puShkariNItIrthe snAtvA muchyeta bandhanAt ||
One should first take a bath in Dashashwamedha, then in Pancha Ganga and lastly in Manikarnika. By doing this, one is liberated from bondage.
The procedure for Kashi Yatra is prescribed thus in Kashi Darpana: One should first take a bath in PilipilA Tirtha (the confluence of Ganga - Yamuna and Saraswati, also called Trilochan Ghat), offer Pitr Tarpana, then take a bath in Pancha Ganga and Manikarnika and finally in Jnana Vaapi before worshipping Sri Vishwanatha. This is the Prayashchitta prescribed for getting rid of the greatest of sins. Those who are capable, can bath in Pancha Tirthas - Asi Sangama, Dashashwamedha, Padodaka Tirtha near the Sannidhi of Adi Keshava, Pancha Ganga and Manikarnika. This is called Pancha Tirtha Yatra and accomplishing the same grants one the merit of worshipping the five faces of Sadashiva (Tatpurusha etc.) Along with Gauri Kunda (Kedar Ghat) and Pilipila Tirtha (Trilochan Ghat), the Yatra becomes Sapta Tirtha Yatra.
We have already discussed the details of Ekayatana Yatra. According to Nandikeshwara Purana, taking a bath in Manikarnika, worshipping Manikarnikeshwara (on Manikarnika Ghat), taking a bath in Jnana Vapi and worshipping Sri Vishwanatha - this constitutes Dwirayatana Yatra. Worshipping the Lingas of Avimukteshwara, Swarlineshwara and Madhyameshwara along with Sri Vishwanatha is called Tryayatana Yatra. Worshipping Shaileshwara, Sangameshwara, Swarlineshwara and Madhyameshwara Lingas along with Sri Vishwanatha is called Chaturayatana Yatra. Worshipping Omkareshwara, Kapardishwara, Krttivaseshwara, Madhyameshwara and Vishwanatha Lingas constitutes of Panchayatana Yatra. One who completes both Panchayatana and Pancha Tirtha Yatras, attains oneness with Lord Mahadeva.
The most elaborate and sacred Yatra procedure prescribed by the Puranas is the Pancha Krosha Yatra. On the day previous to undertaking the Pancha Krosha Yatra, one should take bath in Ganga, worship Sri Vishwanatha and Sri Dhundhi Vinayaka and perform a Sankalpa for the Yatra. The Yatra involves Tirtha Snana in the following Ghats and the worship of the following deities:
Manikarnika Ghat - Siddhi Vinayaka and Manikarnikeshwara
Lalita Ghat - Lalita Devi and Ganga Keshava
Mir Ghat - Jarasandheshwara
Manmandir Ghat - Somanatheshwara, Dalabhyeshwara
Dashashwamedha Ghat - Shulatankeshwara, Adi Varaheshwara, Dashashwamedheshwara
Sri Shitala Devi
Prayageshwara and Sri Bandi Devi
Pandey Ghat - Sarveshwara
Kedar Ghat - Kedareshwara
Hanuman Ghat - Hanumadishwara
Asi Sangama - Sangameshwara
Lolark Ghat and Bhadaini Ghat - Arka Vinayaka
Durga Kund - Durga Devi and Durga Vinayaka. One should offer Payasa Bhakshana to Brahmanas at the Durga temple.
Kandava village - Kardameshwara. One should offer Tilakshatas to Kardameshwara. One should also take bath in Kardama Tirtha and see one's face in Kardama Kupa. One should then worship Virupaksha and Nilakantheshwara.
Amara Village - Naganatha
Chamunda Devi Moksheshwara and Karuneshwara
Delhana Village - Virabhadreshwara and Vikata Durga
Devura Village - Unmatta Bhairava
Gaura Village - Virupaksha
Prayagapura - Vimaleshwara
Asavari Village - Amrteshwara
Bhimachandi Village - Bhimachanda Vinayaka
Ravi raktaksha Gandharva
Sri Bhima Chandi Devi
One should conclude the Yatra for the day by offering Naivedya to Bhima Chandika.
Kachnar Village - Ekapada Ganapati
Harpur Village - Mahabhima Gananatha
Harsos Village - Bhairavanatha and
Dindaspur village - Bhutanatheshwara
Jansa Village - Kalanatha and
Chaukhandi Village - Kameshwara
Bhatauli Village - Gananatheshwara
Sixteen Ganeshas (Shodasha GanapatayaH)
Bhuyli village - Uddanda Vinayaka
Hirarampur - Rameshwara
Utkaleshwara and Rudrani Devi
Varuna Nadi Rameshwara - Offer Tarpanas here
One should conclude the day's Yatra by offering Shweta Tilakshata and bilva to Rameshwara.
Varuna River - Innumerable Tirtha Lingas
Karoma Village - Devasandheshwara
Sadar Bazar - Pashapani Ganapati
Kahjuri Village - Prthvishwara and
Dinadayalupur - Yupa Sarovara
Kapiladhara Village - Kapiladhara Tirtha and
Kapiladhara Tirtha is called Shivagaya and is considered more sacred than Gaya. ShrAddha, Tarpana and Brahmana Bhojana performed here grant Akshaya Shivalokavasa to one's ancestors.
Katova Village - Jwala Nrsimha
Varuna Sangama - only Marjana here and not Snana
Prahlad Ghat - Prahladeshwara
Trilochan Ghat - Trilochana Mahadeva
Pancha Ganga Ghat - Pancha Ganga Tirtha
Sankata Ghat - Vasistheshwara and
Manikarnika Ghat - Maheshwara and Siddhi Vinayaka
One should conclude the Pancha Krosha Yatra by taking a bath in Manikarnika, worshipping Sri Vishwanatha, Annapurna, Mahavishnu, Dandapani, Dhundhiraja and Kalabhairava. One who thus completes Pancha Krosha Kashi Yatra is liberated even while living and attains Shiva Sayujya. By thus doing a Pradakshina of Kashi, one gets the merit of going round all the Tirtha Kshetras on earth.
kAshI pradakShiNA yena kR^itA trailokyapAvan |
saptadwIpA sAbdhishailA kR^itA tena pradakShiNA ||
Antargriha Yatra is yet another significant Yatra prescribed by scriptures like Kashi Rahasya and Kashi Darpana. On the decided day, one should keep the vow of silence, worship Pancha Vinayakas and perform the Samkalpa for Antargriha Yatra. The Yatra should begin with a bath in Manikarnika and worship of Manikarnikeshwara and Siddhi Vinayaka. The Devetas to be worshipped during this Yatra are:
Sankata Ghat - Vasukishwara, Parvateshwara
Lalita Ghat - Sri Lalita Devi and Ganga Keshava
Mir Ghat - Jarasandheshwara
Manmandir Ghat - Adi Varaheshwara, Somanatha, Dalabhyeshwara
Balmukund Chauraha - Brahmeshwara
Agastya Kund - Agastyeshwara
Jangamvadi - Kashyapeshwara, Harikeshaveshwara
Kodayi Chauki - Vaidyanatheshwara, Dhruveshwara, Gokarneshwara
Hatakeshwara - this is considered to be a very secretive spot not revealed to all.
Hastikshepa Tataka - this was lost during floods in Ganga.
Raj Darwaza - Kikaneshwara
Govindpur - Bharabhuteshwara, Chitragupteshwara
Chanduki Gali - Chitraghanta Devi
Pitamaheshwara - Shitla Gali
Brahmapur - Kalasheshwara
Siddheshwari mandir - Chandreshwara
Vira Tirtha - Vireshwara
Nimvali Brahmapuri - Vidyeshwara
Agnishwar Ghat - Agnishwara
Bhonsle Ghat - Nageshwara
Sankata Ghat - Harishchandreshwara, Chintamani Vinayaka, Sena Vinayaka, Vasistheshwara, Vamadeveshwara, Sima Vinayaka
Lahari Tola - Karuneshwara, Trisandhyeshwara, Sri Vishalakshi
Dharma Kupa - Dharmeshwara
Mir Ghat - Asha Vinayaka, Vrddhaditya
Sakarkandaki Gali - Chaturvaktreshwara, Brahmishwara
Kotwalpur - Ishaneshwara
Kalika Gali - Chandika Devi, Chandishwara, Bhavani Shankara, Shukra Kupa
Sri Dhundhiraja Gajanana
Khova Bazar - Langulishwara
Paranneshwara - Jnana Vapi
Dandapani, Paradravyeshwara, Pratigraheshwara, Nishkalankeshwara, Markandeyeshwara, Apsareshwara, Gangeshwara, Nandikeshwara
Moksheshwara and Virabhadreshwara
Avimukteshwara - Sri Vishwanatha
Saptarshi Yatra confers the grace of the seven sages on the Yatri and removes Pitr Dosha and other defects due to a weak Guru in the horoscope. The deities to be worshipped during this Yatra are:
Jangamvadi - Kashyapeshwara
Marichishwara - Nagkund
Gautameshwara or Kratvishwara - near the new Vishweshwara temple
Pulaheshwara - near the Manikarnika Swargadwara
Pulastyeshwara - near the Manikarnika Swargadwara
Vasistheshwara and Arundhatishwara - Sankata Ghat
According to Kashi Khanda, Saptarshi Yatra is a pre-requisite for other Yatras like Pancha Krosha etc.
By completing Ashtayatana Yatra, one is freed from all Graha Doshas and sins. The deities to be worshipped during this Yatra are:
Daksheshwara - Vrddhakalakupa
Parvatishwara - Trilochan Ghat
Gangeshwara - Jnana Vapi
Narmadeshwara - Trilochan Ghat
Gabhastishwara - Mangala Gauri
Tarakeshwara - Jnanavapi - this Linga is again at a secret location.
By undertaking Ashta Bhairava Yatra, one is relieved from all troubles and earns the grace of Sri Kalabhairava. This is a must for Bhairava Upasakas. Even upasakas of Devi i.e. Shaktas undertake this Yatra as Bhairava's grace is essential in Tantric Upasana.
Ruru Bhairava - Hanuman Ghat
Chanda Bhairava - Durga Kund
Asitanga Bhairava - Amrit Kund
Kapala Bhairava or Lat Bhairav
Krodha Bhairava - Kamaccha
Unmatta Bhairava - Bhimchandi Sadak
Samhara Bhairava - Trilochanganj
Bhishana Bhairava or Bhut Bhairav
One should then worship Kala Bhairava and feed dogs. One should also try to worship:
Ananda Bhairava - Ramghat
Mohana Bhairava - Chauk
Dwara Bhairava - Vishwanatha temple
Navagauri and Navadurga Yatras are undertaken by Upasakas of Sridevi. They confer Saubhagya and Saumangalya. These Yatras also grant Mantra Siddhi and accomplishment of all desires. The deities to be worshipped in Nava Gauri Yatra are:
Mukhanirmalika Gauri - Hanuman Ghat
Jyeshtha Gauri - Karnaghanta Mahal
Saubhagya Gauri or Parvati - Vishwanatha Temple
Shringara Gauri or Annapurna- Vishwanatha Temple
Lalita Gauri - Lalita Ghat
Bhavani Gauri - Kalika Gali
The deities to be worshipped in Nava Durga Yatra are:
Shailaputri Durga - Shaileshwara Temple
Brahmacharini Durga - Durga Ghat
Chandraghanta Durga - Chandu Gali
Kushmanda Durga - Durga Kund
Skandamata or Vagishwari Durga - Jotpur
Katyayani Durga - Vireshwara Temple
Kalaratri Durga or Kali - Kali Gali
Mahagauri - Annapurna
Siddhidatri Durga - Bullanala Mahal
By performing Ekadasha Rudra Yatra, one pleases Sri Mahadeva and gets the befit of Shatarudriya. The deities to be worshipped in this Yatra are:
Jagrteshwara - Isarganj
Urvashishwara - Gola Ganj
Nakuleshwara - Ashaya Vata
Ashadhishwara - Kashipur
Bharabhiteshwara - Govindpur
Langalishwara - Khova Bazar
Tripurantakeshwara - Sigra
ManaHprakameshwara - near Sakshi Vinayaka
Pritikeshwara - Kali Gali
Madalaseshwara - Kali Gali
Tilaparneshwara - Durga Kund
Apart from these important Yantras, specific details for Dwadashaditya Yatra, Vaara Yatra, Tithi Yatra, Nakshatra Yatra, Ritu Yatra, Masa Yatra, Parva Yatra, Avarana Yatra, Rudragana Yatra etc. are described in the scriptures.
|| shrIvishwanAthaM sharaNaM prapadye ||